The knowledge handled by artisanal fisher has been acquired throughout generations and allows to persist some traditional techniques over time, and become to be part of the subsistence of coastal communities.
Elizabeth Gutiérrez, Marine researcher.
The guitarfish fishery (Pseudobatos planiceps, main specie in Peru) is a clear example of how the transmission of knowledge from parents to children, as well as between relatives and fishers has made it possible the preservation of traditional techniques such as the "rajado", a technique that consists of making a special cutting of the guitarfish to achieve the correct form of way of drying once placed under the intense sun, to obtain the famous dried meat.
The guitarfish is a species of flattened triangular appearance, which inhabits shallow waters near the coast. It is the fourth species of ray with the highest volumes of landings in Peru (1997-2015), mainly developing its captured with bottom gillnets during the summer season. Its fishery represents an important local economy for some fishing coastal communities, providing added value to the resource, such as the artisanal drying technique, which allows these communities to survive over time.
The guitarfish is a resource fished and consumed by ancient Peruvians since pre-hispanic Peru; thus, the first records of its consumption date back to at least 1,800 B.C., on the northern coast of Peru. Its consumption persists today as it is the main ingredient for the preparation of various traditional dishes, the most notable being the renowned "Chinguirito", which is a dried guitarfish “ceviche”, a historical dish that is part of Peruvian gastronomy. The characteristic of this typical dish is that it is prepared with dehydrated and frayed guitarfish meat.
A family legacy: from father to son
One of the predominant components of the guitarfish fishery is that it is a local and familial activity. It is very common to see up to two generations (father and son) on board artisanal boats, working in the fishing operations, transmitting knowledge of how to fish in the sea, and how to filet the guitarfish on land. One of this stories is about the Villalobos family; I met Mr. Moises in San Andres city, an elderly father who ceded his spot as fishing skipper to his son Juan, now Juan leads the boat and recounts how his father taught him how to fish when he was very young.
Juan Villalobos points out that on multiple occasions he saw his father navigate through adverse waters, however, his knowledge and ability allowed them to return home safely. Now it is Juan who directs the fishing operations and his father supports him with tacking off the nets. Mr. Moisés is reluctant to leave the sea.
"My desire to embark and be on board at sea is what keeps me alive" - said Moisés Villalobos, artisanal guitarfish fisher
In the guitarfish fishing activity, the familial component is also present along the chain of fishing, landing, fileting, and selling at local markets. The younger children and grandchildren support by washing and cleaning the guitarfishes, and the wives are in charge of drying the specimens in the sun. Thus, each member of the nuclear family fulfills a certain function in the chain of extraction, processing, and marketing of the guitarfish.
A shared legacy: the art of guitarfish “rajado”
The process of drying fish has been used since ancient times as a method of preserving food. Being essential to achieve the artisanal drying of the guitarfish to know the technique of "rajado", which consists of making a precise type of cut so that each specimen achieves a homogeneous drying under the sun.
Early in the morning, the fishers arrive at the beach ready to embark until the next day. In their faces, you can see the uncertainty and the hope of getting a good catch that will allow them to recover the cost of fuel and be able to obtain an income for their family. After a fishing trip of around 24 hours, the barges approach the beach to land their catch. One of them tells me with a smile “today we got some guitarfishes, we were lucky”.
The fishers place his catch on the sand, sharpening their knife and begin to filet the guitarfish; he holds it by the back and begins to cut laterally. Then come the children, who are the grandchildren and children of the fisher. They are in charge of guitarfish cleaning, which they achieve by hitting them against the waves. Finally, placed in crates, the guitarfish are taken to their homes, where the mothers prepare space in their yards where one by one they are hooked on a horizontal pole to dry in the sun; everyone waits and provides care day after day until they are ready for sale.
The “rajado” technique still survives in some fishing coastal communities in northern Peru, including Cancas, Port of Constante, Playa Blanca along Tumbes and Piura, and San Jose in Lambayeque, where older fishers keep this traditional technique alive. They pass their knowledge through generations of fishers.
Thanks to this, today some younger fishers increase their revenue by drying the guitarfish and selling it directly to the local public. This is the case for Nicolás Coronado, an artisanal guitarfish fisher from Playa Blanca (Piura), who mentions that thanks to Mr. Lázaro, an elder guitarfish fisher from Port of Constante, he learned the “rajado” technique of slicing guitarfishes. Now, he has stopped selling fresh guitarfishes instead opting to sell them dried to locals obtaining better revenue.
This project aims to understand the different stages guitarfish, of the chain from their extraction to when they are sold. Thanks to the Small Grant from the Save our Seas Foundation and organization ACOREMA, we will continue working on research, conservation, and education around the guitarfish fishery. We believe that this work will help us learn more about the importance of this local fishery on the coasts of Peru.
Elizabeth Gutiérrez is a representative of the organization ARTISONAL.
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